Chicago Tribune Review - Perry's Steakhouse & Grille
 

Richmond - Short Pump

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Richmond, VA

Short Pump Town Center
11788 W. Broad St.
Richmond, VA 23233

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Phone: 804-816-2160

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Chicago Tribune Review

December 19, 2013 | Reviews

2014-01-10_1110-300x59

“Four-week-old Perry’s Steakhouse looks like it can run with this crowd. Perry’s has four locations in Texas, but Oak Brook is its first out-of-state store (though Denver will be opening soon). Being the new kid in town hasn’t kept the locals from flocking to it by the dozens.

It’s not hard to see the appeal. The dining room is so dimly lit, it seems like a romantic throwback, though when it’s full it’s too noisy to consider it for romance. But with spacious tables, white and brown tablecloths, amber and red tones observable here and there — spending time here isn’t hard to contemplate.

The steaks here are prime, aged and butchered in-house, topped with a little herb-garlic butter, and the beef is unquestionably glorious. The signature entree, however, doesn’t even come from a cow; it’s a tableside-carved pork chop ($34.95), a slab of meat seven fingers tall, which has been slow smoked and roasted, served with applesauce. You don’t specify a temperature on this bad boy, because the smoking and roasting cooks it through; nevertheless, the meat is tender and juicy. (If the chop seems too daunting, swing by at lunch for the smaller, $17.95 lunch cut.)

The Symphony Kabob ($44.95) is a cute presentation, a suspended skewer that holds three hefty shrimp, two hunks of filet mignon and a single lobster tail; on the plate below is a ramekin holding peppercorn sauce for the steak. The bone-in New York strip ($47.95) is presented whole, then sliced off the bone for your convenience. The bone remains on your plate, however, for which my dog seemed most grateful later that evening.

Starters include crab cake, presented in two crunchy balls, along with a pile of potato hay; it’s a visual mess that tastes good. Lobster bisque, bolstered by a handful of chopped lobster meat, is a fine choice as well.”

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